Brassiere



Nov. 15, 1949 R. S. WEIL BRASSIERE 2 Shets-Sheet 1 Filed Nov. 29, 1947rF INVENTOR Fay f/Mo/v Wf/L ATTORNEY R. S. WEIL BRASSIERE Nov. 15, 19492 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Nov. 29, 1947 gran 21:5 .wm

Y which 7 the upper short edges 23 between Patented Nov. 15, 19492,488,105 BRAssIsRE Rose Simon Weil, New York, N. Y. ApplicationNovember 29, 1947, Serial No. 788,889

This invention relates to brassieres and particularly to a brassiereadapted to be specially fitted to the particular form of the individualwearer.

-The object of the invention is to provide a brassire having simple,adjustable means for determining the shaping, supporting and relativepositioning of the bust in naturally attractive manner.

- Further objects of the invention particularly in the structure of theparts of the brassiere and the formation of the cup portions will appearfrom the following specification taken in connection with theaccompanying drawing in Fig. 1 is aview showing a brassire illustratingthe invention;

Fig. 2 is a plan view tion of the brassiere.

Fig. 3 is a view of a strip detail for insertion along the inner loweredges of the cups;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary face view of a modification; and

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary rear view of a further modification.

Referring to the drawings, the brassiere shown of a blank'for a cupporpomprises a series of parts including end pieces ||l, fro nt piecesI! and cup portions l2. The end pieces I carry the fastening means [4which may be of any desired type, such as hooks and eyelets. Darts l maybe formed to fit the end pieces to the wearer and elastic inserts may beprovided as indicated at !6 and H.

The front pieces I! have edges l9 attached to the edges 20 of theendpieces alon a length dependent on the vertical length of the brassiere.The form shown is of medium length and is made in shorter lengths, orlonger if desired, or may comprise merely the cup formations fastenedtogether and to end strips extending around the back. The seam 2| joinsthe front pieces at the center, extending from the lower edges 22 to thecup portions l2. 1

The cups |2 have edges 25 which are joined to the upper inclined edgesof front pieces II, and side edges 26 joined to edges 20 of the endpieces I0. The inner upper edges 21 of the cups spread upward to meetthe outer edges 28 at points 29. Shoulder straps 30 will preferably beattached in front at junctions 29 and in the back at suitable points 3|on the upper edges 32 of the end pieces.

The cup portions l2 are specially formed (Fig. 2) to give a shapelypocket and firm support for the bust. The fabric blank AU-havingstraight 9 Claims.

grain as indicated is formed at the center portion with small darts 4|which take out fullness and help form the cupping at 42. The lower innercorner 43 is folded or cut as shown along the vertical grain at 46 andalong the bias at central portion 45 Which is swung down clockwise (Fig.2) with its grain at a bias to the vertical forming the dart 44. Therain of the portion is thus brought into bias running diagonally withrespect to the grain of the cup material extending over the top fromedge 25 toedge 26 with resulting cupping effect. Dart It! further shapesthe cup at the portion adjacent edge 26.

A roomy and naturally formed pocket is thus provided by each cup portionl2 giving a firm support and maintaining its shape. The cup is securelyheld along edges 25 and 26 and by the shoulder strap 39 at the toppoints 29.

superposed on this shaping and setting of the cup ortions of thebrassiere, adjustment is provided by tension strips along the lowerinner edges 25 of the cups. This adjustable tensioning may be attainedin any desired manner. In

the brassiere shown a band portion 5| is sewn in place next to the line'of the seam along edge 25 leaving a clearance for a tightening strip 50running between the band and the seam and with the loose ends 52 at thecenter. 7

After the brassire has beenapplied and fitted to the wearer the ends 52of the tension strips 50 may be drawn to give a gathering of each cup atthe bottom and make a firm grip under the bust line. The band 5| may beformed of any beading or net or binding material and is, fastened to thecup portion 12 by sewing along both edges of the band. The strip 50 isof ribbon, tape, cord, or the like, pulled through between the cup andthe band or binding or between the parts and I2. Preferably the band orbinding 5| will extend to about /'f from the center top of'the brassireand is, of course, fastened at its inner end to the material of the cupat the corner of the edges 25, 26. l I Y The loose ends 52 of the ribbonor tape strips 5|) are tied at the desired tension or may have a hookand eye fastening or any other type of means maintaining the desiredtension. These tension strips may also be individually fastened so as tobe separately tightened, this fastening preferably being some connectionto the upper center portions of the front pieces I The tensioning meansinstead of being sewn on the'face of the brassire could be applied tothe back, being sewn in place along the edge 25 of the cup l2 andtheribbon pulledthrough clearcumulation of added bulk of material.

tions of the brassiere are preferably stitched to- 3 ance provided andthen through to the front by leaving an opening or so from the end onthe seam of the front portion I I.

As illustrated in Fig. 4, the guide strips 55 sewed in place around thelower edges of the cups have the ribbons or elastics 56 firmly attachedat 51 to the seams of corresponding cups at the front of the brassireand pulled through the guides and provided with fastening means, such ashooks 58 on the pull strips engaging eyes 59 sewn on the outside of theback piece IU of the brassire. This permits the adjustment of thetension to be made at the sides instead of at the center.

In Fig. showing a rear or inner view of the brassire, facing strips 62intervenebetween'the front pieces BI and back piecesfill and the guides63 are positioned on the inner surface of the brassiere extending fromnear the center at 64 to points 65 adjacent the facing at 69. The ribbonor elastic strips 66 are attached permanently at 6'! at the front seambet-ween the cups and the front pieces and are pulled through the guides63 and have extended ends 68 passing around the back of the wearer andconnected by being tied or hooked together or otherwise adjustablyfastened.

The dart 44 in the design shown has the outer edge out on a verticalgrain, the other edge of the cut 43 being on a bias: grain and the edgesbeing stitched together. The material cut out could have been retainedand folded over and sewn in exactly the same shape but with the ac- Theporgether with overlapping seams and the brassiere may be lined or facedin part or altogether or just bound at the edges. The front portions Hwith the scam in the center front may be made with elastic inserts orother material like net,

or elastic might be inserted between the front portions II and the endportions II], or elastic might be added to the back ends of theseportions Ill.

The cup portions I2 however formed are positioned across the horizontalline of tensioning of the brassire as a, whole and to this positioningand fitting of the cups is added the additional supporting or thetightening of the tensioning means around the form of the cup whichcompletely holds the bust in place secure against dislodgment. Thistensioning also separates the bust from the rest of the body andaccentuates the division of the breasts, giving a very comfortable andsatisfactory control of the fitting and feel of the brassiere, andcontributing to its natural shaping and appearance.

The facing strip 62 shown in Fig. 5 may be applied to the front of thebrassire in the other figures in which case the guides 25, 55 would becorrespondingly terminated at or near the approach to the facing strip.

This is a continuation-in-part of application Number 613,255 nowabandoned.

The invention is not confined to the specific details described andshown, but is intended to cover such modifications thereof as fallwithin the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In a brassiere a body portion and a pair of cup portions, each of thelatter comprising a fabric blank cut and shaped to provide an upperportion carrying the fabric grain upward and outward continuously aroundfrom an inner lower corner to terminate at an upper outer edge andwearer, each of said cup portions comprising a blank having free upperedges at an angle to each other with the fabric grain parallel to theinner of said edges, and a lower portion provided with a series ofdarts, one of which has a vertical edge cutting across said fabric grainand an inner diagonal edge at a bias thereto to bring the lower outerportion of the cup into bias with the grain at the inner portion of thecup.

3. A brassiere comprising a pair of cup Portions each having a bottomedge curving downward and inward to a lowermost intermediate point andupward to a front central point, means at said center connecting saidcup portions to-- gether at their inner ends-means attached to the outerends of said cup portions and extending substantially horizontallyaround to the back of the wearer and adapted to support and positionsaid cup portions, and tensioning means comprising inelastic strips eachfastened to the lower outer portion of the corresponding cup portionadjacent said attaching means and guided and extending in a generallyhorizontal arc inward around said bottom edge of the said cup portion toadjacent said connecting means'at the center of the brassiere andadapted to be independently adjusted and tensioned and fastened togetherat said center to maintain the respective adjustments of said cupportions.

4. A brassiere comprising a pair of cup portions each having a bottomedge curving downward and inward to a lowermost intermediate point andupward to a front central point, means at said center connecting saidcup portions together at their inner ends, means attached to the outerends of said cup portions and extending substantially horizontallyaround to the back of the wearer andadapted to support and position saidcup portions, tensioning means consisting of a pair of strips eachfastened at one end to a portion of the brassire adjacent thecorresponding cup portion and free at the other end and guide meansextending in a generally horizontal arc inward around said bottom edgeof said cup portion to adjacent said connecting means at the center andhousing said strips respectivel so that the latter are freely running insaid guide means and adapted to be independently adjusted and tensionedby adjustment through said guide means to separately adjust said cupportions and fastened at said free ends to maintain the respectivetensions and adjustments of said cup portions.

5. A brassiere as set forth in claim 4 in which the strips of thetensioning means are of elastic material tending to stretch inuse.

6. A brassier as set forth in claim 4 in which the tensioning strips arepermanently fastened at their inner ends adjacent the center of thebrassiere and have their outer ends free to be tensioned and fastened.

7. A brassiere as set forth in claim 4 in which the tensioning stripshave their inner ends permanently fastened near the front center of thebrassiere and are of such length as to pass through the guide means andaround the back of the wearer to complete the tensioning circuit.

8. A brassire comprising a pair of cup portions each having a bottomedge curving downward and inward to a lowermost intermediate point andupward to a front central point and includin generally vertical facingstrips at their outer edges, means at said center connecting said cupportions together at their inner ends, means attached to the outer endsof said cup portions adjacent said facing strips and extendingsubstantially horizontally around to the back of the wearer and adaptedto support and position said cup portions, tensioning means consistingof a pair of strips each fastened at one end to a portion of thebrassiere adjacent the corresponding cup portion and free at the otherend and guide means extending in a generally horizontal arc inwardaround said bottom edge of said cup portion to adjacent said connectingmeans at the center of the brassire and housing said strips respectivelyso that the latter are REFERENCES CITED The following references are ofrecord in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,555,347 Bacon Sept. 29, 19251,874,868 Bisset Aug. 1932 2,092,390 Federico Sept. 7, 1937 2,180,180Versoy Nov. 14, 1939 2,313,811 Dubner Mar. 16, 1943

